There are countries that deserve to be visited as soon as possible, before everything changes and globalization transforms them forever. The Moldova is, without rhetoric, one of these.
If you don't know where it is Moldova or, even, you have never heard of it, do not worry, it is quite normal, also because it is one of the least tourist countries in the world.
Actually, I didn't know much about the little one, either. Republic of Moldova (this is the official name) between Romania and Ukraine, before climbing on the plane that in about two hours brought me from Turin to Chisinau for a press trip organized by ANTRIM (National Association of Incoming Tourism), with the support of USAID and the Swedish Government, within an international project that aims to awaken, at least touristy, this "sleeping beauty" of the East.
But five days were enough to stay fascinated by a country that has managed to conquer me with bucolic landscapes, an atmosphere of past times, the friendliness of its people, a simple and genuine lifestyle and some beautiful discovery! Here you go. 10 reasons for making a trip to Moldova Now, before I change forever.
Index of Article
1. Chisinau, the capital of Moldova
What you do not expect, coming to the capital of Moldova Chisinau, it is the abundance of green, detail that in a Soviet-style city is anything but obvious. Instead, there are large parks, tree-lined avenues and flowered gardens.
Especially in the centre, where the main attractions are concentrated, easily reachable on foot if you are staying in a hotel like the City Park, a modern 4 star in a quiet pedestrian street right behind the Cathedral.
By the way, if you are in the city on Sunday morning, do not miss the solemn Mass officiated according to the rite of the Moldavian Orthodox Church, which will make you immediately come into contact with the deep spirituality of the Moldovan people.
In the church overhanging, you will notice that the women have all the garment covered as a sign of devotion with the typical flowers handkerchiefs tied behind the nape.
If you don’t have it, you can get one for a few She's here., the local currency Central market that is held a few blocks away, instead of the former Soviet-era kolchosian market: a triumph of vegetables, fruits and products of all kinds that come fresh every day from the countryside of the surroundings.
For handicrafts, such as the Ukrainian shawls and folk blouses embroidered on a cross-point that this year also depopulate from us, take a walk around Vernisaj market, tourist but not too much, right next to the Town Hall.
2. Make a wine-tour among the vineyards of the Zar
Making a wine-tour in Moldova is an excellent pretext for discovering the swamping soul of the country. Get closer to Moldovan viticulture and wines and a world will open.
Already in the times of the Zar la Moldavia – which, to say, is located at the same latitude of Burgundy, – was the largest wine producer of Russia and today are more than a hundred wineries, large and small, producing quality wines from native vines and international varieties adapted to the local terroir.
Chateau Purcari, year of foundation 1827, is the oldest. Its vineyards cover the hills of the province of Stefan Voda, in the south-east of Moldova, caressed by the Black Sea breeze, which contributes to making its wines legendary. In particular, the Negru de Purcari, among the favourites of Queen Elisabeth, which every year orders some cash for the Buckingham Palace banquets.
Needless to say, this dry red wine from Cabernet Sauvignon, Rara Neagra and Saperavi grapes, was the strong part of the tasting of a dozen wines of the house – including the award-winning Alb de Purcari and the Ice Wine obtained from Muscat Ottonel and Traminer grapes – followed to our visit of the historical wineries.
If you are passionate about wine, it is definitely the best experience you can do during a stay in this refined relais that also has ten rooms and a good restaurant overlooking the vineyards, an ideal base for exploring the other wineries of the area.
We have also visited Et cetera, the small cellar that the Luchianov brothers started about ten years ago, combining techniques of ancient and modern wine making and which is already giving great satisfaction.
You can taste their award-winning Chardonnay, Merlot and Feteasca Neagra accompanied by local dishes in the beautiful shabby-chic style restaurant immersed in the vineyards.
3. Learn how to cook Placinta
Igor Luchianov ha stappato per noi uno Spumante Et Cetera 2016, the last born of the wines of the house, an extra brut method Charmat from Glera grapes, practically a Moldovan Prosecco that is definitely honoured. More than we were served with tasty slices of ♪a, a specialty that never misses on Moldovan tables.
And since we were in the kitchen of a family-run restaurant, we took advantage of it for a masterclass of cuisine held by Mrs. Luchianov who unveiled us step by step the recipe of this kind of salted pasta cake filled with a mixture of eggs, potatoes, sheep cheese, various herbs and, wanting, onions.
4. The amazing underground "city of wine" Cricova
5. Orheiul Vechi Nature Reserve
You can't say you've been in Moldova if not visited Orheiul Vechi, the most famous tourist resort in the country. It is an archaeological, historical and naturalistic complex north of Chisinau, which has inspired artists and poets over the centuries and which would have all the cards in order to be inserted among the Unesco sites.
Practically an outdoor museum that embraces the canyon of the Raut river, a fertile valley, remains of villages and fortifications and Pestera rocky monastery, entirely carved into the rock of a limestone promontory.
The only visible part is the bell tower that rises on the top, from which you can access, possibly at the tip of feet not to disturb any functions or prayer of the monks, to one of the most suggestive and mystic places you can imagine, suspended on the valley and in time.
6. The charming village of Butuceni
But surprises don't end here. At the foot of the promontory rises Butuce, which would certainly be in pole position in an hypothetical list of the most beautiful villages of Moldova.
Traditional houses painted in pastel colours, gardens, roses and flowers everywhere, wells for water, a small museum of peasant civilization, some authentic shops and, above all, still no souvenir boutiques. I mean, one of those villages where you leave your heart.
Or where at least spend a few days of serene rural life staying atEco-resort Butuceni, a kind of popular hotel with delicious accommodation scattered in the houses of the country fresh restoration and a restaurant where to taste and, if desired, also learn how to cook traditional peasant dishes with the products of vegetable garden and farm. It will take you three days here to feel completely regenerated and in peace with the world.
7. Casa Parinteasca, Moldovan style farmhouse
A more or less similar agrituristic experience you can also try it House Parinteasca, in the village of Palanca, scattered among the hills and woods in the deep heart of Moldavia, where people still move with horse-drawn carts and survive agricultural and pastoral traditions that risk going lost forever.
To recover and enhance them, Tatiana Popa, after an exciting experience of deportation to Siberia, opened to visitors the doors of the "Casa dei Genitori", turning it into a museum of Moldovan rural crafts.
Nothing static and dusty, for charity, but a living and joyful place, where in addition to admiring and buying carpets, fabrics, blouses and embroidered clothes, you can also see the artisans at work in the workshop of weaving and embroidery, which has often been visited by international designers looking for inspiration.
But to House Parinteasca you go above all to try authentic Moldovan hospitality. The highlight of our visit was, let’s say, the lunch on the hay based on traditional dishes such as the inevitable zama soup, the sarmale wrapped in the vine leaf and a strudel with simply sublime roses.
8. Taste typical Moldovan dishes
By now you have understood: during our travel in Moldova We didn't miss anything, especially at the table. And I must say that Moldovan cuisine, typically peasant, where the products of the land triumph and where Balkan, Ottoman, Russian and Ukrainian influences are found, was a pleasant surprise.
In addition to the Placinta, which you can eat practically everywhere and at all hours, starting from breakfast, among the dishes to taste absolutely can not miss the zama, that is the chicken broth soup with vegetables and fine tagliatelle; the sarmale, rice dough, various meats chopped and onion rolled into vine leaves (sometimes also of green); the gogoghary, that is, the general pepper filled, butter and
9. Jumping to Transnistria, the country that is not there
10. Tasting the caviar of Transnistria
An experience not to be missed during the hike in Transnistria is the visit of the Aquatir plant, specialized in storioni breeding and, therefore, in the production of extremely fine caviar.
In huge sheds you can see the tanks where the various species of sturgeon, including the famous belugas. But the most anticipated moment of the visit is obviously the tasting of the different qualities of black caviar, of which the company produces the beauty of 5 tons per year.
