Discovering one of the most beautiful villages in Italy of the Monferrato Astigiano, reborn thanks to a project of love that enhances the gastronomic excellence of the territory.
There is a place in Piedmont, perched on a hill like an eagle’s nest, where the air smells of history and vineyards. A place that piemontesis know as well as "Balcone del Monferrato", and not by chance. Getting to Cocconato d’Asti is not only reaching a destination, it is making a journey backwards in time, towards a rare and precious authenticity.
Leaving the car at the foot of the village, the invitation is to get lost. Climbing through steep alleys, the frenetic rhythms seem to dissolve. Each step is a meeting: with the characteristic hellets, cellars dug in the living stone that guard the great wines of the area, and with the noble palaces whose silent facades tell centuries of history. There is no rush here. The real luxury is to walk with the nose up, letting itself be intrigued by a massive wooden portal, a flowered balcony, a faded fresco from the sun.
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Piazza della Vittoria, the heart of Cocconato d’Asti
The dedalo of the streets suddenly flows into a bright side, Piazza della Vittoria. Not a simple living room, but a real natural stage overlooking a breathtaking view. From here the gaze stretches free on a sea of gentle hills, rows and villages in the distance, up to the Alps that draws the border with the sky.
But today we perceive a new energy, a creative ferment that mixes with the rare harmony of this place made of history, nature and culture.
On the edge of the square I find TO COMBUNITY, that pervades the air of the unmistakable aroma of pizza cooked in the wood oven. I sit in the dehors, order a plate of merenda synoira and a Baladin Beer, and I observe the life of the country that flows, slow and authentic. That's where I understand. the magic of "Cocconato bell and good”, a project that does not want to change the village, but to value it, adding new energies without overturning the soul.
La Combriccola and the dream of the Riviera del Monferrato
The idea is Alberto Marchetti, the ice cream maker Torinese in love with Cocconato as a boy. "I went back to these hills to look for a second home and found a living world full of memory. I did not find the house, but I found a project that makes me dream: to create the first Diffused Village of the Riviera del Monferrato», tells me. Together with Fabio Digilio (Diecicento) and Leo Longo (Bicierin), ha given life to Combriccola Marchetti, a Benefit Society that wants to do business differently, attentive to people and the landscape.
A discovery around the corner of ancient tastes and crafts
I leave the square and start exploring. Not far away, the Parish of San Giovanni Battista preserves valuable works of art, while the remains of the ancient castle, of which a tower stands, recall the medieval past of this strategically important place. Cocconato is also this: a plot of faith, power and daily life that is breathed in every stone.
In a central street, the perfume guides me towards Salumeria with Gastronomy and Osteria, where excellent meats and local cheeses are the protagonists of simple and respectful traditional dishes. A little further, I cannot resist the call of Gelateria Alberto Marchetti, with its tastes related to the territory. I then discover the Pastificio at sight, where they are born every day agnolotti and fresh tagliatelle. The tip product? The Agnolotto di Cocconato, an ambassador of flavors destined to travel far.
Pedalare, stay, create: the village is experienced
The soul of Cocconato is also movement. At the Shop signed by Leo Longo, I can rent a bike for a picnic among the vineyards or a more structured tour. Next, in the former dairy, electric bike parking and a concept store speak of a slow and conscious tourism. What about sleeping? Hotel Diffuso offers apartments integrated into the country: because here you are not a tourist viewer, but you become part of the community, even for a few days.
The artist’s residence in the hills
The visit ends with the craft shops and the Artist residence. Ceramics, illustrations, design and books animate the streets. In an atelier open to all, I discover the works of artists who find refuge here for their creativity. It is the perfect symbol of this village: a crossroads of ancient and new beauty, of memory and future.
Starting with Cocconato this time, it's different. It does not take away only the memory of a spectacular panorama, but the vibrant feeling of having witnessed a small, big renaissance. It is the good and beautiful taste of an Italy that believes in itself and puts itself in play, with passion and taste. Cocconato is waiting for you to live his rebirth. Come and find out.
