Discovering the authentic heart of Provence, what to see in Avignon on a day: from the golden walls of the Palais des Popes to the perfumes of the Les Halles market, a itinerary between art, flavours and legends.
There is an art to travel slowly, to indulge in the luxury of discovering a city without ever rushing. Avignon is a teacher in this discipline: she teaches the beauty of detail, the pleasure of a contemplative break, the elegance of a heritage that has crossed the centuries without losing a gram of its refinement.
One day may seem little to a place like this rich in history and charm. Yet, if lived with the right intensity, it becomes enough to understand why this city of Provence have the power to seduce even the most demanding traveller. Let's go find out step by step. Or rather, without rushing the step.
Index of Article
Palais des Papes, the symbol of Avignon
We start the day with the visit of the Palais des Papes, the most iconic monument of Avignon, which with its 15,000 square meters of stone, history and intrigue is the largest Gothic palace in the world. In 1309, when Pope Clement V He moved the papal seat from Rome to Avignon, no one imagined that this "exile" would last almost 70 years.
Nine Popes succeeded in this fortified dwelling, transforming it into center of religious and political power European of the time. Crossing its bare rooms you can almost imagine the smoothness of the cardinal garments and the submerged echo of Gregorian chants. The faded frescoes, the austere corridors, the towers that touch the sky, everything speaks of a power that was both ground and divine.
The guides, very prepared, snog dates and tell stories and anecdotes of a distant past. But it is through the magic of augmented reality of the HistoPad, the audioguide technology on tablets that can be rented at the entrance, that the rooms return to appear as they were in the fourteenth century, with tapestries, furniture and frescoes in their place, which seems to enter a time machine. The advice is to buy in advance the combined ticket Palace + Bridge to avoid queues, and devote at least two hours to this UNESCO heritage, where each room deserves attention, each window gives suggestive views of the city and the Rhone.
The iconic Pont Saint-Bénézet
"Sur le Pont d’Avignon, l’on y danse, l’on y danse..." You can not miss the famous song while, left behind the Palais des Papes, you approach the Pont Saint-BénézetPerhaps the most famous bridge in France. Yet few know that, originally, people danced under the bridge, not above. "Sous le pont", said the original text, because it was there, on the island Barthelasse, that there were osteries and locals where it danced until the middle of the night.
The bridge is surrounded by a fascinating legend, according to which a young shepherd, led by a divine voice, dared to build a bridge where everyone believed it impossible, until to demonstrate his abilities, he did not lift a gigantic rock alone. From that miracle this extraordinary work would be born, long time 920 meters and that counted the beauty of 22 arches. Today only four remain, suspended poetically in nothing. Yet, this sudden break increases its charm: as if the bridge had chosen not to end, to leave open the dialogue between land and water.
Les Halles, Provencal flavours and fragrances
In the middle of the morning, following the aromas of freshly baked bread, herbs and spices that pervade the air, you reach Les Halles, the covered market who is the gastronomic heart of the city. Among the forty stalls alternate cream cheeses, dewy vegetables, seasoned meats and olives in quantity. Merchants speak, smile, offer tastes. For those who love the seafood, stop The Cabane Obéron, where the premises meet for a plate of fresh oysters and a glass of iced white wine, in a convivivial atmosphere and without frills.
It deserves a longer stop instead Cuisine Centr’Halles, the restaurant of Jonathan Chiri, provided he can win a place at the counter or one of the few tables available. With the day products of the nearby counters, the chef of Californian origins invents a different menu every day, handwritten on a board in pure bistronomy style, with dishes that enhance the colors and aromas of the Mediterranean, and some intriguing incursion in the kitchen of Louisiana.
Bains Pommer, the charm of public baths
After lunch is the best time to explore the streets behind the market, where there is a forgotten and found treasure: I Bains Pommer, the ancient public baths reopen after half a century. It is a museum, of course, but also a journey into the delicacy of a lost time. Monumental stairways, art deco mosaics, polished copper rubinetteries, scented plant vases, every detail tells the life of four generations of family Pommer, which from 1890 to 1972 seized this temple of hygiene and sociality.
Water here is not only a physical element, but a symbol of rebirth. Among the panels, testimonies and scents of wood and soap, we perceive the slow rhythm of a missing everyday life. At the exit, a small shaded garden invites you to stop. It is a haven of silence in the heart of the papal city, where time seems to suspend once again.
Tastings at the École des Vins
When the sky is dyed with purple, Place de l’Horloge, the outdoor living room of Avignon lights, voices and laughter. Between the elegant municipal palace and the Opera theatre, the vintage carousel turns slowly, the coffee terrasses fill with tourists, the tintinnium of the glasses mixes with the music of a street violinist. It is the ideal time for a toast, or even more.
A few steps away, the building that once was the seat of the Banque de France, houses today Le Carré du Palais, a refined brasserie with a beautiful terrace overlooking the most iconic square of Avignon. At lunch it offers dishes in bistro style, while in the evening the experience becomes more elegant, with tasting menu and combinations between dishes and wines. Vanto del locale is the bar à vin, one of the most renowned of Provence, with over 450 labels from the best producers Côtes du Rhône and Vallée du Rhône.
For those who want to get closer to the fantastic world of local Appellations, a room is dedicated to activity of the École des Vins, which invites you to discover the art of tasting through weekly workshops open to all. Here the wine becomes experience, culture and sharing, on a sensory journey that under the guidance of sommelier experts accompanies the discovery of the great terroirs, the names and the vines of the region. In the glass, a sip of Côtes du Rhône encloses everything that Avignon represents: elegance, warmth, depth.
