In 2010 the tenth edition of the Timbuctu Music Festival takes place in a non-place: between white sand dunes, soft, near a village of nomadi tuareg. The place – or if you prefer the non-place – has a name: Essakane. Essakane, 60 kilometers of sandy track from Timbuctù – the mythical city for travellers of all time – is the place of excesses. First of all the NIENTE, the nothing represented by the non-place, and together the ALL: hundreds of people coming from the most different latitudes to attend during the three days to a festival whose staging requires the installation and therefore the transport of ALL on the place, with an organizational effort "to laugh! "
The result: a continuous oscillation between nothing and everything. Long hours during the day when confronting the desert environment. Chassis of camels, traditional games tuareg, patients expected for events that always seem late (but when they start?... someone has a program?...). And then: the explosion! Something unimaginable... that no director could play. The night, after the 20s (but the first performances already begin around 16 or 17).
A music that paints the opaque blue of the night, which cuts the cold of the air, which induces to dance, to listen lying on the sand, to invoke between us and us loved people, wherever they are in the world, asking them: "But why aren't you here?" But nothing is always there, around the corner, represented by an informal aspect that makes smile: next to the stage, the curtains of artists. Their names are written – with uncertain calligraphy – in pen: Salif Keita, Habid Koite... or the program. Of course it is! Having it means knowing what will probably NOT happen.
A personal anecdote can help you understand. The subscriber calls Ali Farka Touré in 2003. "Ali, are we preparing a trip to Essakane, for the Timbuctu Music Festival... do you know where this place is?" Ali: "Never heard." The undersigned: "Ali, you have an interest in knowing where it is because you are reported among the artists who have to play!" Ali: "Ah yes? Play? I didn't know it!" Report for correctness that the performance of the great "bluesman of the desert" Alì Farka Touré, born and lived not far from Timbuctù, was one of the most beautiful moments in the history now ten years of the festival...
Going to Essakane and waiting for a normal Timbuctu Music Festival means wrong place. Going to Essakane and waiting for an absolutely great music festival in a climate, in a very special atmosphere, then it means making a good choice.
The music: saharian blues, tureg rhythms with traditional and modern instruments, some African melody of other kind (in 2009 an artist of Cape Verde left a great memory), a bit of rap, always pop of African style. The festival is the showcase first of all of Malayan music, which now has a worldwide auditorium. His artists tour everywhere. And the Timbuctu Music Festival at Essakane reverses logic, bringing the audience home.
But Essakane is also the ideal stage for European musicians who recognize themselves in a musical current that today is called World Music.
As for logistics for our guests: igloo tents, restaurant tents, showers and field toilets. Quality refreshment, a convivial climate with a permanent bonfire that heats the bodies, leads to long night conversations and even some dance. Wine seems to help and not miss.
Two last notes that help to understand: under the stage, the audience is meticulous. The event attracts everyone. It's not something for "whites." Who was there in 2009, remembers the overflowing enthusiasm of the various local merchants stationed with their stalls at the announcement of the presence of Salif Keita. They abandoned their businesses to go under the stage... (Business is business, but not just bread lives man! ). Also in 2009 a French brass band (fanfara) performed for days without doing breath economy. "Amateurs" that mixed jazz rhythms with more French melodies. Their enthusiasm has been contagious and has confirmed that music is above all a matter of heart. And attention, to Essakane you can also leave your heart!
Edited by Roberto / Coordination in Mali for the Timbuctù Music Festival
Photo Credit:
By PGskot – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=64478264
